Trophies.
Some stalkers like to keep the
antlers of deer as trophies to hang on the wall or to keep as
examples of antler types for management and training purposes. I
see nothing wrong with doing this , but trophy hunter is a word
used to describe people who shoot a male deer only because it has
exceptionally large or beautiful antlers. No deer should be shot
for its antlers only ! Trophies can be taken when the stalker or
deer manager considers a beast is past its prime or if it has
some sickness or mechanical injury. It is necessary for a stock
of male deer to contain individuals of all age classes. Middle
aged and older deer with large and well formed antlers are the
basic breeding stock whose presence in the herd will maintain
both health and quality.
Assessment of Trophies.
Trophies can be assessed by
measurement and weight under the European CIC formula in use here
through accredited judges of the CIC UK National Permanent Trophy
Commission.
They are contactable in the first instance, through
for telephone contact details, please contact us.
Medals and a measurement
certificate may be awarded for the relevant class of trophy in
classifications of Gold, Silver or Bronze.
Examples of such trophies
obtained within the Country are sometimes exhibited or used at
International exhibitions, which attracts overseas sportsmen who
may be trophy hunters. Personally I feel that deliberate Trophy
hunting is distasteful and it does not help us to keep a low and
very responsible profile.
Trophy preparation.
The deer head may be prepared as
a scull mount plus antlers or as a fully mounted head of antlers
set up by a taxidermist. The decision must be made as to what you
want to do with the head before field dressing or indeed any
cutting is done !.For full head mounts the complete cape, scull
and antlers is needed.
To prepare the head for the taxidermist.
The first incision must be made
at the back of the neck down to a point above the shoulders
cutting of the cape then continuing round the body, behind the
front legs to complete a circle around the whole front end. Do
not pierce the hide at any other point. Cut clean and straight
and be sure to take a large cape it can always be trimmed later
by the taxidermist !.
Next carefully separate the meat
body and pelt , the whole cape is then separated or peeled back
along and around the two knife cuts. The peeled cape is then
pulled up over the antlers while the head is severed very
carefully from its axis behind the ears. Clean the antlers with
hot soapy water and carefully brush any dirt or mud from the
hide. Use tissue to absorb the blood etc. and put cotton wool
plugs in the deer's nose, mouth and ears.The cape can be
carefully folded over the antlers and scull and wrapped in
plastic to freeze or transport it.
Note :If the whole head and
cape is going to the taxidermist it is advisable to ask how they
would like it packed and delivered
Scull mounting and boiling out.
A male deer head can be prepared
as a scull mount with the antlers still attached. It is normally
'boiled out , cleaned of all skin , hair and tissue '
then bleached and finally allowed to dry for five or six weeks
before any measuring or mounting is done.
Procedure.
The head is removed from the
carcass while it is still warm. The cut off point is directly
above the ears and the head is bent upwards to allow the throat
and sides of the neck hide and flesh to be severed. The head
should then 'twist off its axis '. The severed head can
then be placed in a bucket of lightly salted water with the
antlers not submerged. After a few hours excess blood and fluids
should drain out.It can remain in the water bucket for about 24
hours but care should be taken to store it away from dogs ,
vermin and people !. After that time it can be drained, then
wrapped in plastic and stored in a freezer or boiled out straight
away.
Special clamps and buckets for
boiling are obtainable , but any available large saucepan my be
used providing it will take the entire head and allow the antlers
to remain securely above the water level - which will have to be
constantly topped up with boiling water !. Trim off the ears and
some of the skin and flesh to fit the container, but the rest can
be left to cook and then it is easily removed for dog food or
whatever. Some stalkers like to keep the lower jaw and teeth for
ageing interest !.
The head can be cooked on a
'bottle gas' ring , preferably in a discreet and safe
location. Boiling time varies with different aged deer heads and
you need to decide for yourself how long to give each one.
However one tip is to leave on the skin and flesh over the nose ,
this starts to split and the attached lower jaw bone sags freely
when the head is cooked.
After cooking and cooling remove
all the skin, flesh and jawbone. Place the head in an adjustable
cutting clamp or fix securely on a bench and carefully make a saw
cut through the eye sockets and scull cavity for the desired full
or short nose cut. Clean out the Brain and sinuses through to
bare bone. Long nosed pliers and artery forceps are excellent for
this. Wash off the cleaned head and antlers again with hot soapy
water scrubbing as necessary with a nail brush or old toothbrush.
Bleaching and mounting.
The next step is bleaching but
you need to be very careful not to get bleach on the antlers. The
solution used is 30% Hydrogen Peroxide, or domestic bleach if you
wish. All of the scull must be wrapped in absorbent tissue. The
bleaching agent is then poured carefully over the tissue which
should not be touching the antlers !. After about five minutes
using rubber gloves carefully remove all the tissue and wash the
head thoroughly in cold water. Allow to dry for an hour or so and
assess the bleaching effect.In suitable weather the bleached
scull can be left in the sun on a shed roof or similar place. If
necessary the process can be repeated but be careful not to over
do it.
Mounting.
The scull is normally mounted on
a wooden shield , but I have seen them mounted straight onto a
screw in the wall. Buy or make a wooden shield of your choice ,
you can get purpose made mounting brackets which fit in the cut
scull cavities and a screw is then drilled through from the back
of the shield to fit the thread in the self tightening bracket.
Antlers on walls should be fastened very securely at a safe
height.
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